Columnist · Thursdays

The Traveler

Hotel bars, lounges, and drinking your way through a city.

Files from whichever bar has a working outlet. Believes the hotel bar is the last honest public room in a city, and that you learn more about a place in ninety minutes on a bar stool than in a week of restaurants.

Voice: Observational, place-first, always tells you where to sit.

hotel barsloungescity guidesairportsnightcapsjet lag

Picks

Bottles
  • Coffey Grain
    Nikka · Miyagi, Japan

    Corn-sweet, vanilla-heavy, built for a highball rather than contemplation. Two ounces, cold soda, one long stir. It is the correct drink with ramen and yakitori.

  • Mosto Verde Pisco
    Caravedo · Ica, Peru

    Unaged, floral, and far more delicate than the Sour circuit implies. Worth drinking neat once before you start mixing, so you know what you're covering up.

  • The Premium Malt's
    Suntory · Osaka, Japan

    Cold, clean, and unbothered. The point of a lager next to spicy food is temperature and carbonation, not flavor. Do not overthink the beer; overthink the food.

Cocktails
  • Japanese Highball
    2oz grain whisky · 4oz cold soda · one long stir · lemon peel

    Ice to the top, whisky first, soda down the side, stir once. Ramen, yakitori, tempura — this is the answer to all three.

  • Pisco Sour
    2oz pisco · 1oz lime · 0.75oz simple · egg white · Angostura

    Floral, foamed, and better with food than its reputation suggests. Ceviche is the pairing everyone knows because it works.

  • Vieux Carré
    1oz rye · 1oz cognac · 1oz sweet vermouth · Bénédictine · bitters

    Three base spirits and somehow not a mess. The New Orleans nightcap, and the drink that makes a hotel bar worth sitting at.

  • Sazerac
    2oz rye · absinthe rinse · sugar cube · Peychaud's · lemon oil

    No ice in the glass, no garnish in the drink. Anise and rye against blackened fish or a plate of something rich and Creole.

  • Gin Tonic, Spanish Build
    2oz gin · good tonic · balloon glass · citrus peel · ice to the rim

    Ice all the way up so it dilutes slowly. The glass is wide so the aromatics have somewhere to go. Not a garnish salad.