Columnist · Saturdays

The Host

Drinks for a table you set yourself.

Cooks for eight most weekends and has opinions about ice. Writes for the person who wants the evening to work — batch it early, chill it properly, put the bottle on the table and sit down with your guests.

Voice: Warm, practical, quietly bossy about timing.

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Picks

Bottles
  • Chianti Classico
    Montesecondo · Tuscany, Italy

    Sangiovese with the acid intact and the makeup off. Sour cherry, tobacco, dust. This is the bottle for red-sauce night, and it costs less than the pasta.

  • Oberhäuser Leistenberg Riesling Kabinett
    Dönnhoff · Nahe, Germany

    Off-dry, low alcohol, high acid — the exact tool for chili heat. Sichuan, hot chicken, green curry: this does what a big red cannot, which is calm the fire down.

  • Manzanilla 'La Gitana'
    Bodegas Hidalgo · Sanlúcar de Barrameda, Spain

    Salty, bone dry, and roughly the price of a sandwich. Keep it in the fridge door, drink it within three days, pour it with anything cured or fried. There is no better value in wine.

  • Vermut Rojo
    Lustau · Jerez, Spain

    Sherry-based, so it has actual grip. On the rocks with an orange slice it is a whole aperitivo hour for eleven dollars. Also the correct sweet vermouth for a Negroni at home.

  • Cocchi Americano
    Giulio Cocchi · Piedmont, Italy

    Gentian bitterness, citrus, and enough sweetness to keep it friendly. Splash of soda and a lemon twist is the low-ABV aperitif that never gets old. Keep it refrigerated.

  • Le Petit Prince
    Jester King · Texas Hill Country, USA

    Farmhouse table beer at 2.9%. Dry, faintly tart, endlessly drinkable across a four-hour barbecue. The bottle you open when the brisket is still an hour out.

Cocktails
  • Negroni Sbagliato
    1oz Campari · 1oz sweet vermouth · 1oz prosecco · orange half-moon

    The mistake that outlived the original. Lower proof, more lift, and it holds a table for an hour instead of ending it.

  • Americano
    1.5oz Campari · 1.5oz sweet vermouth · soda · orange slice

    The original aperitivo and still the most useful. Bitter enough to sharpen an appetite, weak enough that dinner survives it.

  • Sherry Highball
    2oz manzanilla · 4oz soda · lemon twist · very cold

    Under 8% ABV and it still tastes like something. The drink for a long lunch with fried food, or for hour four of a dinner party.

  • The Select Spritz
    2oz Select Aperitivo · 3oz prosecco · 1oz soda · green olive

    Select over Aperol — more bitter, less orange candy, and the olive garnish is not a joke. This is the Venetian build.

  • Vermouth & Soda
    3oz red vermouth · soda · orange slice · green olive · ice

    The lowest-effort correct drink in this publication. Five percent alcohol, ten seconds to build, and it makes anything salty taste better.

  • Garibaldi
    2oz Campari · 4oz fluffy orange juice · tall ice

    The juice has to be aerated — that is the whole drink. Brunch-legal, bitter enough for adults, and forgiving of a long morning.