Columnist · Wednesdays

The Bartender

Specs that work, and bar rooms that earn the walk.

Came up on volume — three hundred covers a night, no muddler in sight — and still measures everything. Writes cocktails as specs first and stories second, on the theory that you can't argue with two ounces.

Voice: Fast, funny, slightly profane, deadly serious about dilution.

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Picks

Bottles
  • Espadín, Aquilino García
    Mezcal Vago · Candelaria Yegolé, Oaxaca

    Single-village, still-strength, and priced like something you can actually pour twice. Roast agave and wet stone. Smoke handles chili heat the way sweetness handles it — differently, and better.

  • Blanco
    Tequila Fortaleza · Tequila, Jalisco

    Stone-milled, pot-distilled, no additives — which is rarer in tequila than the marketing suggests. Cooked agave and black pepper. Makes the only Margarita worth building at home.

  • Rittenhouse Rye Bottled-in-Bond
    Heaven Hill · Kentucky, USA

    One hundred proof, twenty-odd dollars, and the backbone of every stirred drink in this publication. If your Manhattan tastes thin, this is the fix. Buy two.

  • Tanqueray No. TEN
    Tanqueray · Scotland, UK

    Fresh citrus in the still rather than after it, which is why it survives a very cold Martini without disappearing. Stir it fifty times with good ice and use a lemon twist.

Cocktails
  • Mezcal Negroni
    1oz mezcal espadín · 1oz Campari · 1oz sweet vermouth · orange twist

    Smoke replaces juniper and the whole drink tilts savory. The correct nightcap after anything with chili, masa, or a griddle.

  • 50/50 Martini
    1.5oz gin · 1.5oz dry vermouth · stirred cold · lemon twist

    Half the proof, twice the seasoning. Use vermouth you opened this month. With oysters it is not a drink, it is a condiment.

  • Manhattan
    2oz rye · 1oz sweet vermouth · 2 dashes Angostura · cherry

    The steakhouse drink that does the same job tannin does — sweet vermouth and rye against char and fat. Stir it, never shake it.

  • Boulevardier
    1.5oz bourbon · 1oz Campari · 1oz sweet vermouth · orange twist

    A Negroni that went to dinner. Heavier, warmer, and the right call when the room is cold and the meal is over.

  • Paloma
    2oz blanco tequila · 0.5oz lime · pinch salt · grapefruit soda

    Mexico's actual national drink, whatever the Margarita's publicist says. Salt and grapefruit acid against fat and chili.

  • Margarita
    2oz blanco tequila · 1oz lime · 0.75oz Cointreau · salt half-rim

    Fresh lime or don't bother. Half-rim the salt so the drinker gets a choice. It handles anything grilled, charred, or wrapped in a tortilla.

  • Daiquiri
    2oz white rum · 0.75oz lime · 0.5oz simple · shaken hard

    The bartender's benchmark and the correct drink with heat. Sweetness cools chili in a way that tannin actively worsens.

  • Penicillin
    2oz blended scotch · 0.75oz lemon · 0.75oz honey-ginger · Islay float

    The modern classic that earned it. Smoke on top, ginger heat underneath. Works against fried chicken and against a cold walk home.