The Bartender
Specs that work, and bar rooms that earn the walk.
Came up on volume — three hundred covers a night, no muddler in sight — and still measures everything. Writes cocktails as specs first and stories second, on the theory that you can't argue with two ounces.
Voice: Fast, funny, slightly profane, deadly serious about dilution.
Recent filings · 15
The menu changes, the ice never does
Still the right last stop in North Beach
No menu, no problem, no photographs
A hundred years of not overthinking it
A frozen drink program that isn't a joke
The unmarked door that trained half the Midwest
Down a staircase, behind an unmarked panel
Cantinero service, and the room knows every word
No list, three stations, and a bartender who asks questions
The bar that made barrel-aging a category
Through the bookshelf, and worth the bit
Three rooms, three price points, one very serious kitchen
Picks
- Espadín, Aquilino GarcíaMezcal Vago · Candelaria Yegolé, Oaxaca
Single-village, still-strength, and priced like something you can actually pour twice. Roast agave and wet stone. Smoke handles chili heat the way sweetness handles it — differently, and better.
- BlancoTequila Fortaleza · Tequila, Jalisco
Stone-milled, pot-distilled, no additives — which is rarer in tequila than the marketing suggests. Cooked agave and black pepper. Makes the only Margarita worth building at home.
- Rittenhouse Rye Bottled-in-BondHeaven Hill · Kentucky, USA
One hundred proof, twenty-odd dollars, and the backbone of every stirred drink in this publication. If your Manhattan tastes thin, this is the fix. Buy two.
- Tanqueray No. TENTanqueray · Scotland, UK
Fresh citrus in the still rather than after it, which is why it survives a very cold Martini without disappearing. Stir it fifty times with good ice and use a lemon twist.
- Mezcal Negroni1oz mezcal espadín · 1oz Campari · 1oz sweet vermouth · orange twist
Smoke replaces juniper and the whole drink tilts savory. The correct nightcap after anything with chili, masa, or a griddle.
- 50/50 Martini1.5oz gin · 1.5oz dry vermouth · stirred cold · lemon twist
Half the proof, twice the seasoning. Use vermouth you opened this month. With oysters it is not a drink, it is a condiment.
- Manhattan2oz rye · 1oz sweet vermouth · 2 dashes Angostura · cherry
The steakhouse drink that does the same job tannin does — sweet vermouth and rye against char and fat. Stir it, never shake it.
- Boulevardier1.5oz bourbon · 1oz Campari · 1oz sweet vermouth · orange twist
A Negroni that went to dinner. Heavier, warmer, and the right call when the room is cold and the meal is over.
- Paloma2oz blanco tequila · 0.5oz lime · pinch salt · grapefruit soda
Mexico's actual national drink, whatever the Margarita's publicist says. Salt and grapefruit acid against fat and chili.
- Margarita2oz blanco tequila · 1oz lime · 0.75oz Cointreau · salt half-rim
Fresh lime or don't bother. Half-rim the salt so the drinker gets a choice. It handles anything grilled, charred, or wrapped in a tortilla.
- Daiquiri2oz white rum · 0.75oz lime · 0.5oz simple · shaken hard
The bartender's benchmark and the correct drink with heat. Sweetness cools chili in a way that tannin actively worsens.
- Penicillin2oz blended scotch · 0.75oz lemon · 0.75oz honey-ginger · Islay float
The modern classic that earned it. Smoke on top, ginger heat underneath. Works against fried chicken and against a cold walk home.