Columnist · Alternate Sundays

The Collector

Rare bottles, provenance, and what age actually does.

Keeps a cellar book going back to 1998 and will tell you, unprompted, that most of what people call collecting is just shopping. Files on auctions, allocation, counterfeit detection, and the quiet pleasure of drinking the thing instead of holding it.

Voice: Dry, exacting, faintly amused by hype cycles.

whiskeyrare bottlesauctionsagingprovenancearmagnac

Picks

Bottles
  • Monte Bello Cabernet
    Ridge Vineyards · Santa Cruz Mountains, CA

    American Cabernet that never got loud. Structured, savory, built for a ribeye and a long argument. Decant it an hour, or open it and forget it until dessert.

  • Cornas
    Auguste Clape · Northern Rhône, France

    Syrah as it was before anyone tried to make it charming. Olive, blood, black pepper. The tannin needs protein — give it lamb or a dry-aged strip and it turns civil.

  • 10 Year Tawny Port
    Niepoort · Douro, Portugal

    Walnut, dried fig, caramel that hasn't gone syrupy. Lasts a month open. The end-of-night pour when the table won't leave and nobody wants another cocktail.

  • Bas-Armagnac 15 Ans
    Château du Tariquet · Gascony, France

    Prune, leather, a little rancio. Armagnac stayed cheap because it never learned to market itself, which is our good fortune. A small pour, no ice, after a long dinner.

  • Springbank 10
    Springbank Distillery · Campbeltown, Scotland

    Salt, faint smoke, oily texture — Campbeltown's whole argument in one glass. Allocation has made it silly to find; if you see it at list price, that's the buy.

  • Orval
    Brasserie d'Orval · Villers-devant-Orval, Belgium

    Brettanomyces in the bottle means it changes for years. Young it's bright and bitter; at three years it's dry and funky. Either way it cuts through cheese and fried food.

Cocktails
  • Old Fashioned
    2oz bourbon · 1 barspoon demerara · 2 dashes Angostura · orange peel

    Three ingredients and nowhere to hide. If it tastes flat, the problem is your ice, not your whiskey.